coldrod

Just got back from my first incursion into Asia andfelt I had to share some insights with you, as I used to do in the old good days…The trip started with a nearly 2 weeks stay in Kuala Lumpur, Malasya.

The whole idea of the trip came afterthe organisers of the conference we were gonna work for in Dhaka, Bangladesh, decided to change the venue due to the unstable political situation. We, ofcourse, celebrated the idea and planned a nice routearound SE Asia.Malaysian people were extremely nice and generous,just the perfect host. Some may disagree, but thesociety model of this country, even with its cast’s stratification and social problems, is something unique in the world. A melting pot of different religions that live in apparent harmony. Malays, Hindus, Budists and Muslims mixing and interacting with little prejudices. Something unconceivable inother places of the world. We enjoyed very warm daysin Kuala and a couple of days in Ipoh in some rural squatted area, where we spent the night sleeping insome slums. The hindi tribe that squatted the land 50 years ago is now being kicked away and many local activist are helping them to get at least a cheap house in the place where they have been living alltheir lives, 3rd generation now. They welcomed us with opened arms (amazing to see how sometimes you get somuch and without giving anything ) and we took part insome debates with the local activist that are helping them.

We also had the chance to spend some hours in somewhite sand beach, Blue Lagoon, not without a funny desperate atmosphere, we wanted the perfect beach….

I had an obvious fear that finally was confirmed: 2 weeks for travelling around Vietnam, Camboya and Thailand was in fact too short time. But the 7th ofJuly, after a non-sleep-byebye celebration night, Carla and me took a flight to Hanoi. We had planned to meet with 2 more friends up there,“camioneras” (truck drivers) coming from Finland. Butthey were not in Hanoi yet, so we visited the city and booked a cruise for Halong Bay, near Haiphong. From the first minute we could see how cheeky, funny and sweet Vitnamese are. Someone came into hour taxi when we were getting out from the airport and he told us that that hotel we just arrived to was full and hewould take us to another one his family owns nearby. All a big lie, but we found a room…

Then we discover how Lonely planet has created a whole network of fake hostels that have a different name but use the onethat the guide recommends in order to cheat and confuse the tourist, blind-devoted followers of Lonely Planet sect.We did not care and stayed with the rats and the fake hotel idea, which I finally loved. Hanoi offered agreat experience, with Confuzzio temples, Ho chi min museum and mausoleum and the craziest cross –the- road experience, when thousands of motorbikes do not brakewhen u cross. After that we went to Halong bay, the place where dragons and the Earth merge in one. Floating villages,amazing caves and kayaking to paradise beaches wouldmake the experience unforgettable. The people in the boat would help to make the trip a very funny one,with perfect company, Juan Carlos and Maria Jose, 2 Spanish teachers spending their 2 months holidays inthe region, among them. Back to Hanoi we went to the Puppets Theatre and watered our throats with the cheap street beer. That was the night we saw camioneras and decided we would meet in Saigon or Cambodia; they were some days behind and looked exhausted from some tough days in NorthernVietnam.

Next morning we flew to Saigon, now called Ho chi min city in honour to Uncle Ho, from where we wanted to start a tour around Mekong River. French legacy everywhere, Notre Dames and war museum would bring aweird feeling, the consequences of the Vietnam war can be seen in the people, in the streets, the napalm and orange gas among others now serve as propaganda tools,show the world what Americans did there and show how proud of the victory Vietnamese people are.

Quite a nation pride, museums show the arms stolen and destroyed while the war.

1 hour morning bus took us to the beginning of theMekong Tour. We visited and experienced how people live from the river, with farms, tourism, markets andrice noodles factories. Though a bit intrusive, theexperience was enriching, 23 million people make their leaving out this river in Vietnam, and the rice youate today most probably comes from this area. Snakes,crocodiles, frogs and some weird fruits gave theexotic touch. We spent 2 nights in 2 big cities in thearea, Cantho and Mytho. Rowing, steam or engine boatswould shows us the way in the channels, among crazyMonsoon rains and humble locals that see nowadaystourism as the way to look for a better future in anofficially socialist country. Far from reality, the ideological approach might be that, but in practice,capitalism is the everyday ruling religion.

Camboya would open its doors at the end of the tour, with a different face of the same river, calmer, less exploited and much poorer.Then came the greatest surprise, Cambodia. Phon Pheng, its capital, tops the list of most beautiful temples in the region. Once the centre of the Khmer empire,today Cambodia lives still under the sad threat ofstepping on a landmine. In the late 70s, the Khmer rouges also brought the country to a non-stop civilwar that only today seems to be considered as over, reconciliation is on the way, and people are full of hope to see a future in peace, something most Cambodians have never experienced. We made a nice team out of the Mekong tour and would stay together until the end of our stay in Cambodia. Fatty on the run, also know as Curt and Milena, anItalian nurse, would bring new faces and goof fun.After a visit to some Khmer rouge prisons and silver,gold and emerald palaces, we plunged into the Backpackers quarter of the lake side, a paradise for low budget travellers with the best atmosphere in townand better restaurants. Siem Reap was our next destination. Angkor Watt, the biggest worship building in the world lying next to it.

Early wake up in Phong Phen to take the fast boat to the floating village on the north of the biggest lake of SE Asia, Tonle Sap. Before that, attempt ofthe hostel to rip us off some dollars. Tuk tuk that breaks because they are not supposed to take 4 people, chaotic moment with Curt in the floor, me doing the monkey in the opposite side and Carla saying her “Ohmy god”, imitated by the locals when trying to help usto balance the machine, broken and ready to be thrownto the garbage. Degeneration into “Oh my Budha”! with American accent that would make us laugh for the restof the week. But we made it to the boat and had a lovely trip.

Siem Reap, gateway to Angkor, the magic and the mysticism. First sunset in the temples after seeingthe city flooded with a nice late afternoon Monsoon,from a Tuk tuk, of course, though kayaking would have been faster.3 more days in Siam Reap, exploring the temples,merging with the locals and enjoying the wonderful local Khmer food. Amazing to see how locals leave nextto the temples, make their living out of them and the tourists. Illusions and dreams of the kids that are everywhere, trained to make you cry, pure to make you smile, wise and curious to show you that the poor are also happy and with less.

A bicycle day by myself, enjoying my favourite temples, the trees, the lotus flowers and the sun promising to produce again that reflection in the Bayon´s temples faces, would leave the taste that only some places in the world can give,unique and magic. But eventually magic comes to an end.

After a flight to Bangkok, where I spent 3 days in Khao San Road, Thailand was the last station. Tuk tuking, pretending I wanted to buy gold to get free gasoline vouchers for the tuk tuk drivers and temple visiting took most ofmy time there. The kings birthday and the army incontrol gave me a very weird impression of this country, spicy and dirty but peculiar and very colourful. People were willing to help at all times,and they all wear yellow, in honour of the King, toshow how monarchies can still be popular and belovedin some corners of the world. Extreme stuff for a Spaniard, with our nice useless monarchs.

After 3 days, my month away was coming to and end. I took off for Tampere, where a cloudy and grey working friday gives me the inspiration needed to put the full stop to this text.